Engine Install and More

 

Time to put this back in.

Add a new clutch, mate transmission.

And in she goes. The trick here is jack the back end of the car as much as possible so that you can tip the transmission into the car with the gear selector installed, this makes things easier down the line, as well as allows you to get under the car to secure the transmission mounts.

 

One tip here, if you have the exhaust manifold installed and the steering rack in the car, they will not clear each other. It is close though, just loosen the manifold bolts to let the exhaust sag a bit and you should be able to get it by.

Here is the mount on the transmission support cross member. What did I learn here? Well, first, it is a bad design, but you are stuck with it, so moving on. The rubber buffers go on the cross member first, front hole for standard 4 speed, rear holes for OD trans, tighten them down, you can't reach them later. The Butterfly is installed with pointy side to rear, which will make sense if you have these parts in your hands with a confused feeling. Next, put the bottom bolts into the cross member loosely and then attach the butterfly to the transmission leaving those bolts loose. Now the fun part, put the four supporting  bolts through the cross member into the car frame, they probably won't line up well, you can do yourself a favor and run a tap through the threads just make sure you are starting with clean captive nuts. Installing the bolts will take some prying and swearing, but it will happen. Now just tighten everything up, the front bolts on the rubber mounts will take some time, be patient. Finally you can put on the forward brace if yours has one. 

Next the exhaust down pipe can be bolted up, this is a new stainless steel one, the rest of the exhaust is in much better shape than the old down pipe, so I will reuse it. 

The drive shaft should be installed the same way it came out, so hopefully you have marks on the flanges to match up, this will ensure better balance of the rotating parts. Also on the spline and shaft there are arrows stamped on the metal so that you can put the shaft back together as the factory intended.

Oil cooler back in, easy.

Oil filter. Things are starting to feel like they are coming along now! Alternator back in place, belt installed!!!

My original brass radiator was in good shape so I am reusing it. Just cleaned it up with vinegar and baking soda and then touched up the paint, pretty easy.

Important not to forget oil in your new engine! Factory recommended 20W-50 plus some ZDDP additive for break in. 

No, I did not skip ahead, the dash is only resting on the cowl, but the tach and oil press gauge are connected, yes that is oil pressure you see! Big day, the engine cranked over very nicely and built oil pressure, very exciting!!!

No spark initially, just required splicing a broken wire and all good!

I know this car looks a long way from needing a license plate, but I just wanted to show off the new bling. But, I think this car will be moving under it's own power within two weeks. The reason I haven't started the engine is the exhaust is not on yet. The exhaust is not on because the new axle straps broke immediately, so I am waiting for the new and improved ones from Strapping Lads Shop. The axle sits right behind the exhaust right now without droop straps installed, so I wait. Once the axle and exhaust are complete all that is needed is to hook up the fuel line and crank it over. Fingers crossed. One more note, after some advice from MGEXP.com I have decided to leave the carburetors alone until after I get the engine started, then I will pull them and rebuild them. This is more work but eliminates some variables if I have trouble with the initial start up since it was running when I pulled the engine.